NOTE
Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty:
Starter motor not rotating:
Ignition and engine stop switch not ON
Starter lockout switch or gear position switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Starter relay not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Starter system wiring shorted or open
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over:
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
Starter clutch trouble
Starter idle gear trouble
Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Starter idle gear seizure
Balancer bearing seizure
No fuel flow:
No fuel in tank
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel filter clogged
Fuel line clogged
No spark; spark weak:
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Ignition switch not ON
Engine stop switch turned OFF
Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral
Battery voltage low
Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Stick coil trouble
ECU trouble
Gear position, starter lockout, or sidestand switch trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted
Starter system wiring shorted or open
Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw maladjusted Air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather
hose or air cleaner drain hose.
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
No valve clearance
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
Stick coil trouble
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel to injector insufficient
Fuel line clogged
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Camshaft cam worn
Run-on (dieseling):
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuel injector trouble
Loosen terminal of battery (–) cable or ECU ground lead
Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface Engine overheating
Other:
ECU trouble
Throttle body assy not synchronizing
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Stick coil trouble
ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Fuel to fuel injector insufficient
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged
Fuel pump trouble
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Miscellaneous:
Throttle valve won’t fully open
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Camshaft cam worn
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble
Catalytic convertermelt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)
Overheating:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Muffler overheating:
For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running (Request the nearest service facility to correct it)
For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery (Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter)
For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil
For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off (Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine) ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Lubrication inadequate:
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Oil cooler incorrect:
Oil cooler clogged
Water temperature meter incorrect:
Water temperature meter broken
Water temperature sensor broken
Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Wrong coolant mixed ratio
Cooling system component incorrect:
Radiator fin damaged
Radiator clogged
Thermostat trouble
Radiator cap trouble
Radiator fan relay trouble
Fan motor broken
Fan blade damaged
Water pump not turning
Water pump impeller damaged
Over Cooling:
Water temperature meter incorrect:
Water temperature meter broken
Water temperature sensor broken
Cooling system component incorrect:
Thermostat trouble
Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
No clutch lever play
Clutch inner cable trouble
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch hub nut loose
Sub clutch hub spline damaged
Clutch friction plate installed wrong
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Gear positioning lever binding
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift ratchet assembly spring broken
Shift ratchet assembly broken
Shift pawl broken
Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
Overshifts:
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift ratchet assembly spring weak or broken
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
ECU trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating
Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn
Valve noise:
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing worn
Valve lifter worn
Other noise:
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
Piston ring groove worn
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mounting portions loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Air suction valve damaged
Air switching valve damaged
Alternator rotor loose
Catalytic convertermelt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)
Exhaust butterfly valve cable loose
Balancer gear worn or chipped
Balancer shaft position maladjusted
Balancer bearing worn
Balancer rubber damper damaged
Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Clutch damper weak or damaged
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear worn
Wrong installation of outside friction plate
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient
Drive line noise:
Drive chain adjusted improperly
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise:
Shock absorber damaged
Disc brake noise:
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble
Other noise:
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened
Warning Indicator Light (Oil Pressure Warning) Doesn’t Go OFF:
Engine oil pump damaged
Engine oil screen clogged
Engine oil filter clogged
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil viscosity too low
Camshaft bearing worn
Crankshaft bearing worn
Oil pressure switch damaged
Wiring faulty
Relief valve stuck open
O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged
Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
White smoke:
Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high
Black smoke:
Air cleaner clogged
Brown smoke:
Air cleaner housing holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:
Handlebar hard to turn:
Cable routing incorrect
Hose routing incorrect
Wiring routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:
Tire worn
Swingarm pivot bearing worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar clamp bolt loose
Steering stem nut loose
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Engine mounting portions loose
Handlebar pulls to one side:
Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
Steering maladjusted
Front fork bent
Right and left front fork oil level uneven
Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
Tire air pressure too high
Front fork bent
(Too soft)
Tire air pressure too low
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Rear shock adjustment too soft
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking
Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leakage
Disc warped
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder
Master cylinder scratched inside
Battery Trouble:
Battery discharged:
Charge insufficient
Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)
Battery cable making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)
Ignition switch trouble
Alternator trouble
Wiring faulty
Regulator/rectifier trouble
Battery overcharged:
Alternator trouble
Regulator/rectifier trouble
Battery faulty
Front Fork Installation (Each Fork Leg)
Install the fork so that the top plug end [A] as shown in the
figure.
11 mm (0.43 in.) [B]
Steering Stem Head [C]
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower): 23 N·m (2.3
kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
NOTE
Tighten the two lower front fork clamp bolts alternately
two times to ensur ...
Rocker Arm Removal
Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band.
Remove the front footpeg bracket bolts.
Raise the rear wheel off the ground with the jack (see
Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
Remove:
Lower Rear Shock Absorber B ...
Clutch Lever Installation
Install the clutch lever so that the mating surface [A] of the
clutch lever clamp is aligned with the punch mark [B] of
the handlebar.
Tighten the upper clamp bolt first, and then the lower
clamp bolt.
Torque - Clutch Lever Clamp Bolts: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69
in·lb)
There will be ...